With the final exam tomorrow, our time here is quickly drawing to a close.
I wanted to quickly try and answer “M” who asked about my changed perceptions of the Afghan people compared to my first time round—how has my impression changed from my first? Knowing it’s difficult and maybe unfair to paint with broad strokes, I’ll have a go at it anyway.
My first impression, drawn from interaction with the students, was that the Afghan people were more similar to us than different. Western clothes, hairstyles, English, a sense of humor. I suppose I expected the differences to be more obvious. Only when discussion turned to Allah (with N the first round) was I really confronted with the whole religion issue—which can be divisive and I avoid it. Another characteristic I have noticed (again, with the students) is their seeming inability or unwillingness to try and dig to figure something out, to look something up in their textbook, for example. They get stuck on something and immediately it’s, “A-jan!” calling for the teaching assistant to explain something they could easily find an explanation for in their book. Few express an interest in private sector work except banks—banks and government seem to be the only employers they consider. No one talks about starting their own business. They are also appreciative, but some also seem to have a sense of entitlement—I fear there may be an expectation of a helping hand from outside and reduced performance expectations because “this is Afghanistan.” I maintain, as I have from the beginning, that Afghans are generous and care deeply for their families. Leaving the home at age 18 or living far from elderly parents are pretty much unthinkable for them. They also love to have their photo taken.
I was anxious to get back out of Afghanistan when I first arrived this time round, but after being here a bit I’m more comfortable and could consider returning. Only recently, I discovered an excellent website with reviews on the restaurants in Kabul. Thank you Rosey, whoever you are! The recommendation for Herat Restaurant (“best lamb chops in the world”) took us there last night. I definitely couldn’t say best in the world anything, but it was neat to go to a “locals” place. No armed security or weapons search/pat down here. We did sit in the back “family room” so we couldn’t be seen from the street (the main dining room had glass walls to the outside). A major plus was that our dinner came to $11 for both of us. We left a 100 Afghani ($2) tip for the waiter and the thankful guy made a point of shaking both our hands on the way out!
After, I met with my new friend Ryan at L’Atmosphere. Ryan is here volunteering on a project to set up IT systems at the Kabul U library. He’d been in South Africa previously and we also realized we had both been to La Iguana Perdida in Santa Cruz, Guatemala. I stayed there for the chilled-out atmosphere, Ryan went there to dive. We also both remembered the Australian gal working there, Rebecca (“Becks”). Becks stopped through NYC to visit friends on her way through NYC a few months ago and I ran into her then. It was classic summer camp schtick, she and her friends were all wearing wigs out to the great little dance club where we met up. Anyway, small world.
Ryan and some of his coworkers and friends were seated at a table poolside (yes, I said pool as in swimming pool). I tried to take some photos, but my camera doesn’t do the job in such low light and they didn’t turn out.
There is this kind of gruff gatekeeper guy at the Kabul U library who gives us dirty looks if we’re late leaving at the end of the day. He always wears a white cap (there is probably a more appropriate term for it) and is grumbling at someone. But during this round he’s begun to bring what I think is his son to work and this kid is about the most adorable you’ll ever see. He wears this stripped suit and a baseball cap and he’s cute as a button. I’ve gotten him to slap me five now and again, but he often runs off if I try to approach him. Lots of people here dress in suits or jackets—Chinese knock-offs of expensive brands are everywhere as well as people make lots of clothing by hand.
I wanted to quickly try and answer “M” who asked about my changed perceptions of the Afghan people compared to my first time round—how has my impression changed from my first? Knowing it’s difficult and maybe unfair to paint with broad strokes, I’ll have a go at it anyway.
My first impression, drawn from interaction with the students, was that the Afghan people were more similar to us than different. Western clothes, hairstyles, English, a sense of humor. I suppose I expected the differences to be more obvious. Only when discussion turned to Allah (with N the first round) was I really confronted with the whole religion issue—which can be divisive and I avoid it. Another characteristic I have noticed (again, with the students) is their seeming inability or unwillingness to try and dig to figure something out, to look something up in their textbook, for example. They get stuck on something and immediately it’s, “A-jan!” calling for the teaching assistant to explain something they could easily find an explanation for in their book. Few express an interest in private sector work except banks—banks and government seem to be the only employers they consider. No one talks about starting their own business. They are also appreciative, but some also seem to have a sense of entitlement—I fear there may be an expectation of a helping hand from outside and reduced performance expectations because “this is Afghanistan.” I maintain, as I have from the beginning, that Afghans are generous and care deeply for their families. Leaving the home at age 18 or living far from elderly parents are pretty much unthinkable for them. They also love to have their photo taken.
I was anxious to get back out of Afghanistan when I first arrived this time round, but after being here a bit I’m more comfortable and could consider returning. Only recently, I discovered an excellent website with reviews on the restaurants in Kabul. Thank you Rosey, whoever you are! The recommendation for Herat Restaurant (“best lamb chops in the world”) took us there last night. I definitely couldn’t say best in the world anything, but it was neat to go to a “locals” place. No armed security or weapons search/pat down here. We did sit in the back “family room” so we couldn’t be seen from the street (the main dining room had glass walls to the outside). A major plus was that our dinner came to $11 for both of us. We left a 100 Afghani ($2) tip for the waiter and the thankful guy made a point of shaking both our hands on the way out!
After, I met with my new friend Ryan at L’Atmosphere. Ryan is here volunteering on a project to set up IT systems at the Kabul U library. He’d been in South Africa previously and we also realized we had both been to La Iguana Perdida in Santa Cruz, Guatemala. I stayed there for the chilled-out atmosphere, Ryan went there to dive. We also both remembered the Australian gal working there, Rebecca (“Becks”). Becks stopped through NYC to visit friends on her way through NYC a few months ago and I ran into her then. It was classic summer camp schtick, she and her friends were all wearing wigs out to the great little dance club where we met up. Anyway, small world.
Ryan and some of his coworkers and friends were seated at a table poolside (yes, I said pool as in swimming pool). I tried to take some photos, but my camera doesn’t do the job in such low light and they didn’t turn out.
There is this kind of gruff gatekeeper guy at the Kabul U library who gives us dirty looks if we’re late leaving at the end of the day. He always wears a white cap (there is probably a more appropriate term for it) and is grumbling at someone. But during this round he’s begun to bring what I think is his son to work and this kid is about the most adorable you’ll ever see. He wears this stripped suit and a baseball cap and he’s cute as a button. I’ve gotten him to slap me five now and again, but he often runs off if I try to approach him. Lots of people here dress in suits or jackets—Chinese knock-offs of expensive brands are everywhere as well as people make lots of clothing by hand.
1 comment:
Just had a chance to catch up on the bloggity blog - good stuff. I hope the various illnesses are somewhat in control. Don't think I'll be spending much time in Kabul after seeing how your body reacts to it. See you in NYC soon.
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